A new and highly effective natural ingredient for skin hydration products will take centre-stage for Naturex at the forthcoming In-Cosmetics Global (Amsterdam, 17-19 April)
Hydranellys is an active derived from Selaginella, known in China as the "resurrection plant" for its ability to survive extreme drought conditions.
Exhibiting on booth C80, Naturex will also promote Bucovia, a recently launched oral care ingredient that balances microbiota to support mouth health.
Native to Shandong Province, Selaginella has been used for hundreds of years in traditional Chinese medicine.
The plant has a novel way of coping with dehydration: when drought hits, it curls up on itself and loses its green colour thus appearing to be dead.
In fact, it is employing intrinsic biological mechanisms that allow it to recover as soon as the first drops of water appear.
In skincare products, Hydranellys harnesses this unusual capability to ensure good hydration of the skin.
It achieves this by caring for the hydrolipidic protective film that covers the entire surface of the skin, and by strengthening the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. In this way, it helps dry skin recover by maintaining its lipid balance and retaining moisture.
Hydranellys is obtained by applying Naturex Eutectys technology, which uses NaDES mimetic solvents to maximise the power of Selaginella.
To demonstrate its benefits, Naturex has conducted extensive in vitro genomic tests on the structuration of the stratum corneum and has measured ex vivo the increase of epidermal lipids.
During a clinical study with volunteers with dry skin, researchers noted that following application of a 3% Hydranellys cream, transepidermal water loss was reduced during the short- and long-term, compared with a placebo. Moreover, the subjects’ hydrolipidic balance recovered and an overall improvement in skin quality was observed.
Yohan Rolland, Global Category Manager for Naturex, said: “Dry skin can result from many endogenous factors such as age, stress and hormonal changes. It is also caused by exogenous factors, like cold and windy conditions or exposure to chemicals."
"However, it is now understood that providing the skin with an effective barrier function is vital for maintaining it in a good hydric state. Hydranellys offers a boost of hydration by channeling the extraordinary natural drought-resistance powers of Selaginella.”
Also in the spotlight for Naturex at In-Cosmetics Global will be Bucovia, a natural bioguided fractionated active that effectively supports mouth health.
Having a healthy mouth requires the right balance of endogenous bacteria and fungi, including Candida albicans. If this balance is upset, endogenous microbiota in the mouth may be colonized by the opportunistic pathogens responsible for gum disease and other oral infections.
Naturex’s new solution is composed of active compounds from Solidago virgaurea, a European plant containing saponins that are effective in controlling the growth of mixed fungal-bacterial biofilms.
In a double-blind clinical study, Bucovia reduced the microbial load in supragingival and subgingival dental plaque.
Candida albicans load was reduced by 98% and total bacterial load was reduced by 29%. There was a decrease of several bacteria associated with dental caries, gingivitis, adult periodontitis, localized aggressive periodontitis and halitosis. Subjects participating in the study also experienced a clean feeling in the mouth for longer.
To develop Bucovia, Naturex teamed up with dental and oral health expert Professor Isabelle Prêcheur from the University Côte d’Azur, France.
Professor Prêcheur has spent nearly a decade researching the effects of Solidago saponins on Candida albicans. Her knowledge was combined with Naturex’s extensive botanical expertise to create a bioguided natural active that preserves the mouth’s microbial flora.