Monteloeder has unveiled new preclinical research suggesting that its Elissara® nutricosmetic ingredient may support hair follicle function and resilience through multiple biological pathways.
The findings, published in the August 2026 issue of Biomolecules, build on previous clinical research into Elissara’s effects on scalp health and hair appearance and could support its use in next-generation beauty-from-within formulations.
Multi-pathway approach to hair health
The study comprised three preclinical assessments involving human dermal papilla cells and human scalp tissue exposed to environmental stressors including PM2.5 pollution and UVA radiation.
In human dermal papilla cells, Elissara increased cell proliferation to approximately 2.5 times that observed in untreated controls.
In scalp explants, the ingredient also increased collagen and signalling proteins associated with follicular function, including markers linked to cell proliferation, structural support and follicular signalling.
The researchers also found that Elissara helped preserve levels of insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1), a growth-signalling protein involved in hair follicle development, when tissue was exposed to environmental stress.
At the same time, the ingredient reduced markers of oxidative damage associated with PM2.5 and UVA exposure.
Preclinical findings also indicated that Elissara may influence pathways associated with dihydrotestosterone (DHT), an androgen involved in hair follicle miniaturisation and shortening of the hair-growth phase.
From scalp health to follicular resilience
Elissara combines standardised extracts of lemon verbena, olive leaf, Japanese pagoda tree and rosemary.
Its polyphenol profile includes verbascoside, oleuropein, hydroxytyrosol, quercetin and rosemary-derived diterpenes such as carnosol and carnosic acid.
According to Monteloeder, the ingredient was originally developed to support skin against environmental stress before its potential applications in scalp and hair health emerged.
A previous clinical study involving 66 women found that daily supplementation improved scalp moisturisation and hydration while reducing sebum levels and scalp redness.
Almost 79% of participants reported healthier-looking hair, 76% reported improved shine and nearly 80% said their hair felt stronger.
Daniel González-Hedström, R&D Director at SuanNutra, said the new research provides insight into Elissara’s potential mechanisms of action.
“Rather than relying on a single pathway, Elissara combines four standardised, polyphenol-rich botanicals selected to provide complementary biological activity," he said.
We are gradually unearthing Elissara’s potential benefits on hair resilience. The findings of this preclinical trial provide new insights into its pathways of action and help us understand how the composition may support healthy follicular function.
"The next step is to investigate whether these mechanistic findings translate into measurable hair benefits in a clinical setting."
Monteloeder will present the research at Vitafoods Asia and SupplySide Global.
